2010 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie

The 2010 Chardonnay Nancie is striking. Lemon, pastry, spices and minerals are some of the nuances that flow from this articulate, totally beautiful wine. The finish boasts tremendous energy buffered by bright acidity and intense salinity. Partial malo (50%) and just a small amount of new French oak (15%) allow the pedigree of the fruit from these hillside Sonoma vineyards to shine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker Tyler Thomas share a passion for cool-climate marginal sites. Given the focus on sourcing from top vineyards, it is hardly a surprise that the vineyard-designates are the most exciting wines in this lineup. I have a harder time finding the same level of enthusiasm for the winery’s numerous blended cuvees, but these are all excellent to outstanding wines that merit serious attention. Tel. (707) 591-0782; www.donelanwines.com

Leaning heavily towards the white Burgundy spectrum, the 2010 Donelan Chardonnay Nancie was aged 12 months in only 15% new French oak. Very pretty, with delicate notes of lemon grass, citrus, chalk, and background richness with more toast and crème, this balanced, beautifully put together Chardonnay opens in the glass, has impeccable balance, and an overall pure, clean profile. I like it now, yet a year or two in bottle could see this gain in stature. It's very well done and worth seeking out.