2008 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshohle Riesling Spätlese

Thyme, mint, lime, and orange inform the nose of Donnhoff's 2008 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese which offers a lither texture and brighter, more saline mineral dimension than one is used to. In fact, it's remarkable the degree to which this resembles the corresponding Brucke in its intricate interweaving of herbal, mineral, citrus, and red berry strands, while wreathed in an aura of smoke and crushed stone. don't be deceived, says Donnhoff, there's a lot more stuffing behind this Hermannshohle. And by the way, the analyses of these Spatlesen, including Kupfergrube, are almost identical; the handling in the cellar was the same; and there aren't even 500 meters to separate the three of them. Plan to follow this for 20 or more years and to expect - as its author suggests - further complexity and richness along the way. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300