2006 Saxum Heart Stone Vineyard

A blend of 38% Syrah, 36% Grenache, and 26% Mourvedre, the 2006 Heart Stone Vineyard offers up scents of flowers, lavender, black cherries, raspberries, blackberries, underbrush, and forest floor. Justin Smith uses a lot of whole clusters in his fermentation, which seems to give his wines structure as well as nuance. This is the most French-like of Saxum’s 2006s, and it comes across like a restrained, northern Rhone-like effort that is only hinting at its ultimate potential. It will benefit from 1-3 years of cellaring, and should evolve for 10-15 years. One of California’s super-star producers, Saxum owns one of the state’s most remarkable vineyard sites, the James Berry Vineyard, which has been broken into a number of different blocks, all planted on rocky limestone hillsides. This estate’s approach to winemaking is decidedly artisinal, with extraordinarily small yields as well as a minimalistic winemaking philosophy. Proprietors Justin and Heather Smith, who seem much too young to be producing such prodigious wines, fashion separate blends from the different blocks of the James Berry Vineyard. They also produce a cuvee from the 7-acre Heart Stone Vineyard (also planted on limestone soils) and one from the Booker Vineyard. Saxum’s 2006s are all home runs, but the utterly prodigious 2007s should resonate for decades, and showcase the brilliant potential of these limestone hillside sites west of Highway 101. Kudos to everyone at Saxum. My visit began with two of Smith’s experimental cuvees, which are only available to mailing list customers. As remarkable as the 2006s are, the 2007s are even more prodigious, showcasing just how brilliant certain Paso Robles terroirs can be. Even the most cynical observers of the Rhone Ranger scene will have to take notice of these wines. Even though some of the 2007s had just undergone bottling, I was blown away by how well they performed just a week after being bottled (often one of the worst times to taste a wine). In short, Saxum’s prodigious 2007s are even more nuanced, complex, and concentrated than their brilliant 2006s. Tel. (805) 610-0363; Fax (805) 238-2267

(38% syrah, 36% grenache and 26% mourvedre) Bright red. Sexy, strongly floral aromas of strawberry, black raspberry and candied flowers, with a suave Christmas spice quality. Sappy and sweet, with vivid red fruit and floral pastille flavors and a seductive overlay of cinnamon and mace. Bright minerals add lift and cut to the sappy finish. This was fermented with about 35% whole clusters.