2017 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi
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Tasting notes
This vintage is remembered for the heat and the dry growing conditions that continued throughout the summer months. The 2017 Saffredi represents a valiant effort of winemaker against weather. This estate, located not too far from Grosseto on the Tuscan coast, is used to hot growing seasons, and there is something in its DNA that better prepares a winery like Fattoria le Pupille to navigate the effects of climate change. I think it is fair to read the 2017 vintage in that context. You get dark fruit, leather and tobacco spread over a more exuberant, full-bodied approach. Toasted coffee bean and espresso also appears. Natural freshness is ultimately what ties this wine expertly together.
Critic scores
The Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
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Full bottle 1,365 g. 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot. 2017 was marked by the significantly early arrival of all stages of vine growth. The absence of important rainfall, both in winter and spring, concentrated all efforts on managing the productive balance of the vines. The mild, brief winter, combined with a spring of above-average temperatures, led to canopy growth and the entire subsequent growth cycle taking place about 15 days early. The grapes were healthy (no disease) but not very pulpy, resulting in a 20% drop in production. Harvest between 1 and 30 September. 35,000 bottles produced. Transparent garnet. This has come on in leaps and bounds and is already broachable with food. It does taste more Tuscan than Bordelais! Is it that bite on the finish? It starts sweetish with very light leafiness and the richness of Merlot but then immediately veers into an Italian idiom. There's a light dustiness on the finish. It's much more appetising than the 15% vol 2018 – even if 2017 was seen as hot and dry before 2018 came along. (JR)
Just bottled, the 2017 Saffredi is a huge, unctuous wine that captures all the natural richness of the year in spades. Rich and super-concentrated, with huge fruit, the 2017 is going to need a number of years to shed some of its baby fat, but it is a superb wine in the making. Coffee, licorice and spice all develop, and yet it is the wine's sheer depth that leaves the lasting impression.
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot. 2017 was marked by the significantly early arrival of all stages of vine growth. The absence of important rainfall, both in winter and spring, concentrated all efforts on managing the productive balance of the vines. The mild, brief winter, combined with a spring of above-average temperatures, led to canopy growth and the entire subsequent growth cycle taking place about 15 days early. The grapes were healthy (no disease) but not very pulpy, resulting in a 20% drop in production. Harvest between 1 and 30 September. 35,000 bottles produced. Very dark crimson with an intense nose – a sort of essence of the 2016. Still very youthful. Lots there but not that expressive at the moment. A hint of blueberries with almost painful acidity and pretty marked (well-handled) tannins. (JR)