2003 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc
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Tasting notes
Drinking brilliantly, the 2003 Hermitage Blanc is now certainly fully mature and has a heavenly nose of white currants, buttered almonds, freshly baked croissants, and orange marmalade. A white that builds and gains freshness and depth with time in the glass, it hits the palate with a full-bodied, layered, concentrated mouthfeel, flawless overall balance, and that rare blend of opulence, richness, and freshness. I love it today and see no reason to hold off, but I'd be shocked if this doesn't have a solid decade of prime drinking ahead of it. This iconic estate continues to hold the line on what constitutes a truly great Hermitage, both red and white, and there are few vinous treats better than a tasting with Jean-Louis Chave in his cellar in Mauve. Looking at the wines reviewed here, the 2022s were tasted from barrel, and this is a ripe, sunny, yet also tannic vintage that’s going to benefit from its élevage, as well as require bottle age. They remind me slightly of Chave’s 1998, although as I say in the review, I think there’s a touch more sun-kissed fruit in the 2022s. The 2021s are beautiful, elegant, seamless wines, and you’ll be hard pressed to do better in the vintage. These aren’t massive wines, but they have pretty, complex, and classic profiles that will drink well with just a few years of bottle age. On another level, the 2020s are powerful, massive wines that remind me slightly of the 2010s (or is it 2009s?). They have tons of baby fat and are already fun to taste, but these are built for the long haul.
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Jeff Leve, The Wine Cellar Insider
More reviews and scores
Another sensational white that made my eyes roll back in my head, the 2003 Hermitage Blanc is even more over the top and decadent than the '09. Possessing almost no acidity, it's a flamboyant, massively concentrated, decadent and heady effort that's overflowing with notions of honey, caramelized oranges, currants, licorice and buttered hazelnuts. Staying fresh and lively, it's a monumental Hermitage Blanc that will probably live forever on its sheer concentration.
"The white wines in 2003 can either be magic or very bad," said Jean-Louis before he poured this elixir. Pale gold. Dusty and spicy on the nose, with intense licorice, orange peel and mineral tones. Absolutely huge on the palate, with an oily, viscous texture that is shocking. The extract here is almost painful and the richness of flavor utterly compelling. (This clocked in at 16.5% alcohol, with less than 2 grams per liter of acidity.) Thick, buttery flavors of orchard fruits and orange bitters, complicated by minerals and smoke. The floral, honeyed finish won't let up. "You need the type of food your doctor won't let you eat," replied Jean-Louis when I asked him what he would pair this with. "Escoffier cuisine, textured foods, old-style haute cuisine like sauce Nantua, food that needs wine to cut through it."
About the producer
The Chaves have been growing grapes in the Northern Rhône since 1481. Jean-Louis Chave is the 16th generation to head up the family domaine, having taken over from his father in 1992.