2004 Bouchard Père & Fils Montrachet Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru is quite reductive on the nose, but the aromatics click through the gears as it responds to aeration, likewise in terms of definition, liquid rock mixed with citrus scents. The palate has a simmering tension, impressive nervosité with a cheeky suggestion of white truffles decorating the finish. It does not quite have the depth of the Chevalier La Cabotte '04, but it is drinking perfectly now. Tasted at the "Four" dinner at Bouchard Père in Beaune.
Critic scores
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
A little muted on the nose at first – it took a bit of time to open out. Then the fruit started to emerge – round, bright and spicy, almost sweet. Admirably creamy texture and lovely freshness on the finish. Be sure not to serve this too cold. (JR)
Deep aromas of clove and iodine. Extremely tight, dry and backward, giving up little today. Very intensely flavored and steely; in comparison, the young 2005 is much fruitier and creamier today. This one is most impressive now on the subtle, stony, rising finish. An extremely unevolved wine that calls for extended cellaring.
Reduced nose offers poached pear, baking spices, iodine and menthol. Sweet, dense and leesy, with a compelling creamy texture and outstanding richness. Dominant flavors of baked apple and pear. Less showy now than the Cabotte, owing to its powerful underlying spine. The team picked the south-facing fruit here first, then brought in the north-facing grapes five days later, by which time they had turned golden in color and had gained another half-degree of potential alcohol. "But it's much too expensive to do this with other, lesser crus," noted Hervet. Along with Montrachets from Leflaive and Lafon, this is an early candidate for wine of the vintage.
About the producer
Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s oldest and most established wine producers. Founded in 1731 by Michel Bouchard, it is the largest vineyard owner in the Côte d’Or with 130 hectares of vines.