1991 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
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Tasting notes
This was low yield after frost, but has plenty of concentration, if a little strict. As it is coaxed out of the glass, beautiful crushed roses and tobacco leaf aromatics come through, along with campfire and smoked earth, chamomile bud, incense, saffron, cranberry compote. Aged between 228l Burgundy barrels and old-fashioned resin vats. Gerard Jaboulet at the time was owner and his brother Jacques winemaker. I have had better bottles of this particular vintage, but that's the gamble of opening mature wine!
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck
Matt Walls, Decanter
More reviews and scores
From The Wine Society's cellar. Bricky garnet. Open, red-fruited, juicy. Much lighter bodied than the 1990 but really fragrant. Lightish, beautifully balanced and fresh. Light, dry tannic finish. Really lovely in a distinctive style. (JH)
The 1991 Hermitage La Chapelle is now fully mature and a classy, elegant La Chapelle with lots to love, although it's not getting any better and has been in its peak drinking window for over 10-15 years now. Revealing a healthy dark plum hue with solid bricking at the rim, it has a great nose of ripe black fruits, cured meats, baking spices, subtle soy, game, and hints of chocolate. Just classic La Chapelle aromatically, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin, a plush, soft texture, and outstanding length. From a year that saw a great growing season that was capped by bad weather at harvest, this justifiably lives in the shadow of the 1990 but is nevertheless a gorgeous wine. this beauty will continue drinking nicely for another 8-10 years, although as I said, there's no need to delay gratification and if you have them, find something to celebrate and enjoy.
There's a little rust to the ruby colour now. It has fullness and generosity still on the palate, not to mention fruit and tannin, even after 30 years. It's taken on black olive truffle, sweet turned earth and worked leather at this stage. The acidity is strong, and it still has a great sense of vitality and salinity. Wonderfully long finish. From lieux-dits Les Roucoules, Le Méal, Les Greffieux, Les Bessards and Varogne.