2005 Domaine Leroy Richebourg Grand Cru

Their 2005 Richebourg leads with black raspberry liqueur, crystalized ginger, coconut, and candied violets. In the mouth, a meaty element, enhanced spiciness and a tart yet stewy rhubarb note emerge. To state that the overall impression is fat, full and creamy seems unnecessarily repetitive. But there is much more obvious tannin and new wood (even though it is the same 100%) in evidence than with the wines that proceeded it, and perhaps partly in consequence the formidably long finish is dominated by roasted meats with a sort of dry-rubbed spiciness, the suggestions of fruit more spiritous than fleshy. Still, the sheer intensity displayed is itself remarkable. This would be an amazing wine to revisit, but probably not inside a decade. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Medium ruby-red. Cooler, aristocratic nose offers black raspberry, violet, minerals and a touch of menthol austerity. Superrich, full and powerful if a bit less expressive today and far more masculine than the RSV. This boasts superb volume and a great core of sappy, sweet material-as well as an earthy suggestion of soil. More tannic today than the RSV, this will probably require 12 to 15 years of cellaring to realize its full potential. I got the impression Lalou Bize marginally prefers this to the RSV, but the RSV is sexier today.