1997 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Saturated, deep ruby-red. Captivating, somewhat idiosyncratic nose combines redcurrant, burnished smoky oak, Szechuan peppercorn, exotic spices, blood orange and a saline suggestion of sea salt. Silky, tactile and very rich, with enough harmonious acidity to give this very broad, pliant wine terrific inner-mouth energy. Red berry flavors are complicated by gunflint and smoky oak. Juicy, elegant, long Brunello, finishing with very suave tannins.