1997 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate

The 1997 Barolo Brunate (magnum) is a dark, imposing wine loaded with dark fruit, earthiness and French oak. This is an especially powerful, brooding Brunate that retains a certain element of rusticity and roughness that is out of character here, at times recalling Syrah-like notes. The wine is quite a bit fresher in magnum than in standard 750-ml bottle and should continue to age nicely on its core of dense fruit. Readers should note that magnums of this wine were never released commercially.

A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620.

A big wine, the dense opaque ruby/purple-colored, tannic 1997 Barolo Brunate, exhibits copious aromas of cassis, black cherry, kirsch liqueur, licorice, smoke, truffles, and new oak. Notes of coffee and chocolate emerge as the wine sits in the glass. It possesses amazing density, a lot of muscle, and a roasted character to its fruity personality. This backstrapping, full-bodied Barolo requires 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for 25. Robert Parker, Wine Advocate # 135 Jun 2001