2005 Domaine de l'Arlot Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

There are three barrels of the domaine’s 2005 Romanee St.-Vivant, from a property they acquired with the 1991 vintage but that has always seemed something of a problem child. Recent replanting and continual sensitivity to options in vinification are designed to address that, and this year’s rendition is very promising. Cardamom, white pepper, lily and black cherry in the nose lead to a glossy palate of caramel- and brown spice-tinged, rich black cherry fruit, and persistent inner-mouth florality. Abundant fine tannin does not preclude an emerging sense of creaminess, nor block this wine’s long, darkly-fruited, spicy finish. Jean-Pierre de Smet – who managed this estate since its 1987 purchase by the French insurance group AXA – has just turned over the reins to his young technical director Olivier Leriche. Practices here have been certified as biodynamic now for two years. The 2005s were all fermented with whole clusters. Numerous agents and U.S. importers including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642 5500, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100, Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Bright ruby-red. Reticent aromas of black cherry, violet and licorice. Pure but tightly wound and a bit inexpressive, even disjointed, today. Medicinal and clenched, in need of more give. Finishes with substantial tannins and good sappy, chocolatey length. The estate has replanted a sizable percentage of these vines over the past decade, as they were unhappy with the massale selection in this vineyard. Difficult to assess today, but does not appear to capitalize on the superb conditions of this vintage.