2005 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Beaux Bruns 1er Cru

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Beaux Bruns offers a sweet, sappy, vividly fruity personality in keeping with the character of its siblings. Black raspberry jelly allied to notes of caramel and chocolate inform a rich, silky palate featuring fine but persistent tannins. This should drink well early, though I find it lacking in the refinement or distinction that characterizes most of Barthod’s wines. Possibly this is being held back by its touch of reduction, although generosity of fruit is not really the issue – the wine is actually quite come-hither. Sharing expanded wine-making facilities with her husband, Louis Boillot, Gislaine Barthod continues to render some of the purest, most expressively fruity and consistently excellent as well as ageworthy Pinots in Burgundy. All but the Bourgogne and village Chambolle – recently assembled in tank – were tasted from barrel. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.

Brilliant ruby-red color. Sexy, fruit-driven aromas of dark raspberry and bitter chocolate. A sweet, fleshy fruit bomb in the mouth, offering lovely fat and breadth but not quite the verve or soil complexity of the Baudes. But this lush and accessible wine does not lack for energy. Mounting finish features firm tannins.