2002 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru

This is clearly at another level in most every respect as there is more ripeness, concentration, punchier flavors highlighted by a distinct minerality and a satin-textured finish. The complexity is most impressive but it's the harmony of expression that I like best. In short, this delivers knockout quality

To give readers an idea of Burgundy’s tiny plots, Mortet’s 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques is from 1.18 hectares (2.92 acres) of vines (averaging 50 years old) spread out in five parcels. It has a superb nose of violets, spices and bing cherries as well as a magnificently elegant personality. Medium-bodied, lively, and detailed, it displays a cherry-dominated, juicy character of admirable purity, grace, and length. According to Mortet, this was the last vineyard harvested as it is a cool terroir that ripens late. Projected maturity: 2007-2017. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

(picked at the end of the harvest) Deep ruby-red. Wild dark berries, violet and licorice on the perfumed nose. Big, rich wine with impressive force and size. Flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate, espresso and mint. A huge wine, even if the slightly tough tannins cut off the finish today. More tannic than the Champeaux, but Mortet maintains that the tannins in 2002 are finer than usual for this cru.