2016 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

(production was down between 60% and 70%): Bright ruby-red. Serious, deep scents of blackberry, blueberry, cassis, licorice and menthol convey an old-vines richness. By far the densest, sweetest and most concentrated of this series of 2016s, with dark fruit and licorice flavors lifted by pungent minerality and a piquant note of pomegranate. The least candied and most classic of these '16s, conveying terrific density and depth. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and sneaky rising length. Serious juice!

The 2016 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru was damaged 70% by the frost: a significant proportion of the entire Grand Cru given that Comte de Vogüé owns most of it. Matured in 30% new oak, it has a broody bouquet that is not as immediate as the Bonnes Mares at the moment, in fact, you would think there is a small amount of stem addition even though there is nary a stem. The word that springs to mind nosing this Musigny is “rocky,” maybe basalt? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. There is plenty of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit infused with minerals that segue into a strict and correct finish that leaves you with a persistent stony aftertaste. It is more of a cerebral than sensual Musigny, one that will require eight to ten years in bottle. I was not quite captured by this Musigny but I suspect that it will show better once in bottle.