2002 Henri Goutorbe Special Club Brut Grand Cru

(made from 70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay, all from Ay; disgorged April 20, 2011): Light gold. Deeply pitched aromas of pit and tropical fruits, Meyer lemon, anise and white flowers. Bright and expansive, with sneaky power to its citrus and pit fruit flavors lifted by tangy acidity. Packs a serious finishing punch and leaves notes of honeysuckle and smoky minerals behind. This is showing even better than last year's disgorgement.

The 2002 Special Club shows the Goutorbe house style at its best. Layers of sweet perfumed fruit waft from the glass. Rose petals, spices, pears and red berries are some of the many aromas and flavors that flow from this beautiful, delineated wine. The 2002 Special Club possesses a touch more weight and sheet substance than the other wines in this lineup. Hints of ash and smoke mark the deep, satisfying finish. The 2002 Special Club is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from vineyards in Ay. Disgorged April 20, 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. Goutorbe is one my favorite under the radar growers. At their best the wines deliver tons of Ay personality. All of these Champagnes were vinified and aged in steel. Dosage is 9.6 grams per liter across the range. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Goutorbe's 2002 Brut Special Club is one of the more open, approachable wines of the vintage. A warm toasty bouquet leads to layers of rich deep Pinot fruit. Most of the wine's charm is up-front as this loses a little bit of steam in the early afternoon. The expressive, open bouquet expresses the fact that this may a highly shut down at the time of the tasting.