2008 Descendientes de J. Palacios Moncerbal

The 2008 Corullon Moncerbal, also from a steep hillside vineyard, is a bit more tightly wound than the Las Lamas but is equally promising in its already complex, mouth-filling, impeccably balanced debonnair personality. Sophisticated and charming, all it needs is another 4-5 years of cellaring. Descendientes de Jose Palacios was founded in 1998 by Alvaro Palacios and Ricardo Perez. The estate has steep hillside vineyards ranging in age from 60-100 years planted to 100% Mencia, the indigenous grape of cool-climate Bierzo. The vineyards are biodynamically farmed and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. It, along with the Bierzo wines of Raul Perez, is arguably the finest in the DO. Importer: Mannie Berk, Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA; Tel. (800) 999-4342; www.rarewineco.com

Vivid ruby. Black raspberry, potpourri and bitter chocolate on the inviting, mineral-driven nose. Quite suave on entry, then nervy and exotically spiced in the mid-palate, with noteworthy energy to the black raspberry, cherry pie and Asian spice flavors. Plenty of acidity, but it's well buffered by the wine's sweet fruit. Shows a penetrating, linear style, but expands impressively on the back end, finishing with silky tannins and superb, spicy persistence.