2020 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Dense aromas of newly turned earth, poached plum, dark berry fruit coulis and a whisper of the sauvage are a bit more complex but not as elegant as those of the Griotte. The succulent, delicious and mouthcoating broad-shouldered flavors possess a highly seductive mid-palate texture that contrasts noticeably with the mildly warm, compact, serious and equally built-to-age finale that just goes on and on. This beauty is also a "buy and forget you own it" wine.

There were only seven barrels of the superb 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes, as the Roty family's ancient vines yielded a mere 18 hectoliters per hectare. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis and plums mingled with licorice, sweet spices, violets and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with huge concentration, velvety tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This monument in the making will require a decade's patience, and prove essentially immortal thereafter.