2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Lemon pastilles on the decidedly smoky, reductive nose. Extremely youthful and taut. Racy, mineral, light as air (very unlike most wines from this appellation) with fantastic potential. (JR)

Comprising (like last year’s rendition) two barrels’ worth from each of the appellations two communes and exposures, picked same day and married in the press, Colin’s 2007 Corton-Charlemagne smells pungently of lavender, heliotrope, white pepper, ginger, and crushed stone. Coming onto the palate with an almost austere combination of pungency, chalkiness, and textural firmness, its bright lemon and white peach suffice to inject a note of sheer juiciness that it a long, invigorating finish largely rises to the challenge of so much pungency and stoniness. This should become richer – but hopefully preserve its brash intensity – with a few years in the bottle and may well merit following for a decade or more. And in fact, it’s another of those Colin 2007s about which I wonder whether if would have shown better simply on another day. Pierre-Yves Colin – who openly pledges allegiance to Riesling virtues – does more than just talk the talk of achieving ripe fruit at low levels of potential alcohol. Finished alcohols in his collection – after half a percent or so of chaptalization – range from a (for modern times almost astonishing) 11.75% up to 12.75%. “I really can’t say,” he confesses, “why so many growers were getting fruit of 12.5% or more potential alcohol already at the end of August,” ten days before Colin even began picking, but he can say he doubts their fruit tasted ripe then! Half of the acreage he accesses is in Saint-Aubin – naturally conducive to later ripening – and was not picked until past mid-September this year. Colin believes in minimal settling, by gravity, and retaining lots of lees, but not in actively working them; favors rapid pressing, and 350- (one-third new) over 225-liter barrels; and welcomes late and protracted malo-lactic conversions – although this vintage's malos were completed by the following June. He bottled his Saint-Aubin crus at just over a year; his other premier crus this past March; and the grands crus (of which I was unfortunately unable to taste the Chevalier-Montrachet) in May, sealing them all with wax, in the belief that this will provide extra protection against harmful oxygen ingress. For myriad further details on this relatively new estate and its rapidly-growing family of wines – nearly half of which are from contract fruit – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180, where – having up until then not seen a label – I inadvertently left-off the “-Morey” from the winery name A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300;Atherton Wine Imports, Menlo Park, CA, tel. (650) 328-6639 and Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 392-6995

(aged in two-thirds new oak) Ripe peach, apple and rocks on the nose, complicated by a whiff of fennel. Tighter and more imploded than the Perrieres, showing less obvious volume today and a distinctly cool quality. This very rocky style has a structure like a red wine. Very long and firm on the aftertaste. Colin points out that this is the only wine in the cellar that's an assemblage-in this instance, half of the fruit is from Pernand and half from Aloxe, picked the same day and vinified together. Tough going today, and almost certain to merit a higher score with several years of bottle aging.