2015 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Rocket Block

As with the Bone Rock, there are only four barrels of the 2015 James Berry Vineyard Rocket Block, a blend of 89% Grenache and 11% Mataró, from a tiny parcel, that was all co-fermented. Offering the essence of kirsch liqueur, ground pepper, gravelly minerality, herbes de Provence, and licorice, it reminds me of a great vintage of Domaine de Marcoux’s Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. Massive and opulent on the palate, yet pure, elegant, and refined, with silky tannins, it’s as good as wine gets. Hats off to Smith for another magical wine. Saxum’s Justin Smith has hit a home run with these recent vintages, and his 2015s, 2016s, 2017s, and 2018s all have singular styles, with the quality remaining sky-high. The 2018s show the slightly more pure, fresh, yet concentrated style of the vintage nicely. While not yet bottled, these will offer pleasure in their youth as well as benefit from short term cellaring. The 2017s are more pretty, perfumed wines that don’t quite have the density of the 2016s yet certainly don’t lack for fruit. Most are already drinking nicely today, yet as with all great wines, they’re going to evolve gracefully. Lastly, the 2016s are some of the greatest wines I’ve tasted from this estate, and they offer massive, layered, yet impeccably balanced profiles that are a joy to drink today; they’ll also be a joy to drink in 10-15 years as well. As I’ve written more than once, there are few mailing lists worth being one, but without a doubt, this is one of them.

Lurid ruby-red. A powerful, highly expressive bouquet evokes raspberry preserves, cherry cola, potpourri and exotic spices, and a smoky mineral note builds with aeration. Sweet, palate-staining red fruit liqueur, spicecake and candied lavender flavors show outstanding depth as well as nerviness, thanks to a spine of juicy acidity. Smoothly plays power off elegance and finishes extremely long, sappy and precise, with silky tannins emerging steadily and evenly.

The 2015 Rocket Block James Berry Vineyard—which had been assembled in preparation for its bottling in two weeks' time—is superb, revealing complex aromas of cherry, raspberries and spice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, textural and bright, with an expansive core of juicy, succulent fruit framed by fine-grained structuring tannins. This rendition of Rocket Block—from a cooler, northeast-exposed parcel—is one of the most elegant, vibrant wines in the Saxum cellar, exemplifying not only Smith's evolution as a winemaker but also what's possible in Paso Robles. The final blend is 89% Grenache and 11% Mourvèdre, matured in concrete and neutral oak. It should enjoy two decades of longevity.