2004 Brovia Barolo Villero
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Tasting notes
The Barolo Villero is not my favorite Brovia wine, so I don’t tend to reach for it very often. Perhaps that is a mistake. The 2004 is simply magnificent. Dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the alluring aromatics and balsamic notes that are typical of this site, the Villero simply has it all.
Critic scores
The Wine Advocate
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Mature mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Beautiful deep fruit nose with undergrowth, liquorice powder and minerals. Gentle fruit palate perfectly matched by finely grained tannins. Amazing elegance and yet firm. (WS)
Good deep red. Rather wild aromas of marzipan, minerals and truffle, plus a resiny nuance. Very dry, austere and powerful but not particularly primary. I find more porcini than fresh fruit here, and the tannins are tough going right now. The hardest wine to taste today of all these Barolos: this seemed much sweeter and sappier from barrel a couple years ago.
The 2004 Barolo Villero is heady, sensual stuff. This ethereal, mid-weight Barolo wafts from the glass with white truffles, spices, menthol and sweet perfumed roses in a defining expression of this Castiglione Falletto vineyard. The wine retains tons of grace and elegance as firm, yet well-integrated tannins frame the fruit through to the close. This is a terrific effort from Brovia! I tasted two bottles; the first was open and accessible, the second very much shut down. I would give this wine at least another few years in bottle before giving it a try.