2007 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda
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Tasting notes
(bottled in 2011): Good bright red. Expressive smoky aromas of red berries, plum, menthol and mocha, with a hint of medicinal austerity. Fat, sweet and liqueur-like, but with harmonious acidity giving the middle palate a surprisingly light touch. Still, this is rather subdued today and does not show the lift or stuffing of the 2009 Parussi that preceded it in my tasting. Finishes with dusty tannins and a faint tart edge. Will this benefit from further aging or will it dry out? I'd opt for drinking it over the next few years.
Critic scores
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2007 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a gorgeous wine that presents a stunning perspective on the Nebbiolo grape. Its magic is on full display. Ethereal and elegant, the bouquet presents a never-ending succession of wild fruit, underbrush, cola, licorice, freshly chopped mint, dried ginger, balsam overtones and exotic spice. Think of the grape’s most elegant characteristics and you get them all here. In the mouth, the wine feels fleshy and generous with thick layers of fruit that are amply supported by the firm but fine tannins. Its aging future looks bright. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. The Massolino family has deep roots in the Langhe. Great-grandfather Giovanni Massolino founded the winery in 1896 and was the first to bring electricity and a steam-operated machine for harvesting grain to Serralunga d’Alba. Grandfather Giuseppe was one of the founders of the local winegrowers’ consortium in 1934 and father Giovanni bought the first single vineyard, Parafada. Today, the estate is run by siblings Franco, Roberto and Paola. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799
I am surprised by how delicate the 2007 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is. Freshly cut flowers, sweet cherries, mint and anise are all nicely layered in the glass. Despite the richness typical of the year, the 2007 is a relatively mid-weight wine, with only modest depth, delineation or nuance. At times, the alcohol is also noticeable. Today, it is hard to see the 2007 being a long-term ager, and I say that having tasted every vintage of this wine and knowing most previous editions have developed beautifully in bottle. Overall, this is a rare miss from Massolino. Tasted twice with consistent notes.
Good full red. Candied red cherry, marzipan and flowers on the nose, plus a whiff of cream soda. Thick, dense and intense, with outstanding vibrancy and inner-mouth floral perfume to the cherry, berry and licorice flavors. This very firm, young and compelling Barolo is a great example of the 2007 vintage at its best.