2021 Kumeu River Chardonnay Hunting Hill

‘In the last few years this has really been blooming’, said Paul. All clone 15, facing south-west so it gets the prevailing maritime breezes. Clay over an iron pan. 25% new barrels, all François Frères. 1,600 cases. Pale straw. Strong lemon aroma with light smokiness and real lift. Lovely balance and great youth and extremely long. Raciness. This is just a treasure that deserves to be cellared awhile to take full advantage of its potential for complex development. It has the same steeliness but more obvious fruit than in typical fine Australian Chardonnays. Tight finish for the moment. (JR)

The 2021 Chardonnay Hunting Hill is its usually sinewy, taut and lightly floral self. Often in the shadow of Maté's Vineyard, Hunting Hill seems to be becoming more and more serious as the vines age - they're around 20 years old. Expect a muscular, unyielding wine that has lemon and lime bitter notes, nectarine and even a whiff of seaside - all salty and briny.