2006 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Deep ruby. Smoky cherry and blackcurrant aromas convey a wild, gamey quality, along with suave floral and mineral lift; smells like a northern Rhone wine. Deep dark fruit liqueur and olive flavors are sharpened by zesty minerals and finish with impressive grip and thrust. Combines energy and depth deftly.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is forward and ready to go, with plenty of kirsch, blackberry, garrigue and cured meat aromas and flavors all emerging from the glass. Full-bodied and nicely concentrated, it’s a classic, elegant and complex red that can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade or longer. As is common with a lot of 2006s, it has a traditional feel, yet offers solid fruit and texture. Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173