1970 Château Haut-Brion
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Tasting notes
It has been several years since I last tasted the 1970 Haut-Brion. Unfortunately, one bottle opened in Burgundy was a little oxidized, though another was more representative. Even so, it was not a great period for the estate, then owned by the Woltners. Plenty of dusty black fruit on the nose infused with black olive, bold yet missing the complexity of a top-flight Haut-Brion. It just lacks the dimension. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit infused with pencil lead and cedar. It's firm and rather austere on the finish - more so now than before. As such, I would drink bottles sooner rather than later.
Critic scores
Robert Parker
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
The 1970 Château Haut-Brion is a First Growth that has probably been over-shadowed by the Latour 1970 during its lifetime. However, this bottle proves that it is not to be underestimated; it highlights the glaring gap that exists between itself and another First Growth, the 1970 Château Margaux that I tasted alongside. There is plenty of vigor on the nose with dashing red berry fruit, cedar and black olive - just very Haut-Brion.The palate is medium-bodied, well balanced and fresh, nothing over-ambitious, just a Claret in the traditional sense of the word that gently builds towards a sous-bois dominated finish. This is an excellent showing, stout and a little austere, and you could argue an Haut-Brion with its peak in its wing-mirrors. Yet good bottles such as this will continue to offer pleasure for another decade. Tasted June 2015.
Magnum. Just a coincidence that we ended up with two 1970 first growths. And I'm delighted to have re-tasted this wine after a very disappointing bottle noted here . This was very much alive and kicking – with lots of Haut-Brion minerals/warm bricks notes still and real intensity. Maybe it just slightly faded on the finish but this was a robust, very convincing bottle. Long lived too! Perhaps my favourite wine of this 1950 Babes lunch. (JR)
Relatively simple red. Hint of oxidation on the nose. Full and furry on the front palate then dry on the finish. [I wondered whether this was a bad bottle but Michel Bettane assured me this was quite typical.] (JR)
About the producer
Ch. Haut-Brion is the only classified growth in Pessac-Léognan. One of the five First Growths, it is renowned for producing both exceptional reds and whites. Along with its sister estate, Ch. la Mission Haut-Brion, it is part of the Clarence Dillon stable.