2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra

Even after all these years, the 2001 Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra is still massively tannic and buried by oak. Hints of espresso, mocha, licorice and spice struggle to emerge over time. The 2001 Ginestra was so exciting when it was young but that potential never seemed to materialize. At this point, I don’t see the wine ever being in balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Without question the most surprising 2001s I tasted were those of Domenico Clerico. I loved these wines when they were released, rated them highly and bought them for my own cellar. I tasted the 2001s with Domenico Clerico and his team during a visit in November 2011, and then opened the wines from my own cellar back in New York. Oddly, I found the wines from my cellar in better shape than the wines I tasted in Piedmont. Still, time has not been kind to Clerico’s 2001s. I found all of the Baroli surprisingly forward and evolved. The tannins have softened some over the years, but now the fruit is dropping out and the wines are evolving rather quickly. The Langhe Rosso Arte, a 90% Nebbiolo/10% Barbera blend, is the wine that has aged best. And when the entry-level wine (Arte was the entry-level wine in 2001) has aged better than the top selections, there is a problem. Clerico was a long-time proponent of French oak, which he employed in very high levels until around 2005 or so. Maybe it was the toast levels. It’s hard to say exacly. What is pretty clear is that the 2001s are evolving at a fast pace and aren’t likely to improve much from here. Importers: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA; tel. (800) 862-4585, Cutting Edge Selections, Mariemont, OH; tel. (513) 561-8555, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887, Robert Panzer Selections, Wilmington, DL; robertpanzer@hotmail.com, Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400, Selected Brands, FL; tel. (954) 428-0019, Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 547-6343, Estate Wines, tel. (415) 706-7975, Vinum Wine Importing & Distributing, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843, Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996

Clerico's 2001 Ciabot Mentin Ginestra was one of the first Barolos that really captivated my attention and for me it remains this producer's most representative wine. It is a superb achievement and one of the highlights of the vintage.

Exotic, exhilarating aromas of sappy red berry liqueur and woodsmoke. Wonderfully sweet on entry, then superripe and liqueur-like in the middle palate, with an utterly suave texture over firm supporting spine. Finishes impressively long and sweet, with serious but noble tannins. There's nothing especially austere or forbidding about this extremely rich Barolo. (ST)