2002 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru

Mouth-watering aromas of yellow plums, white peaches, apricots, and a myriad of spices can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Meursault Genevrieres. This fresh, satiny-textured, medium-bodied wine has a fabulous satiny mouth-feel. Honeyed minerals are intermingled with spicy plums in its deep, long character. Projected maturity: now-2012. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644, and Beaune Imports.

Surprisingly given the normal character of the Genevrières, this is aromatically much more reserved and backward than either of the prior wines with tight, spicy, intense flavors that offer superb clarity of expression and a racy, vibrant, mineral-infused and explosive finish blessed with stunning intensity. This will require a few years to really open up and develop the superb underlying material. In a word, terrific.

(bottled two weeks prior to my visit) Pure, vibrant aromas of lime, white flowers and powdered stone. Bright and precise, with rather powerful fruit for this cuvee (today the Charmes seems more delicate). A lovely acid spine gives shape and grip to the wine's fruit. Just a tad dry-edged today following the recent bottling. It's clear that this rather backward wine will need several years of aging to express itself more fully.