2014 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin Clos de la Chateniere Vieilles Vignes

Donated by Peter and Paul Wasserman, sons of the late Becky . Olivier Lamy is one of the most thoughtful Burgundian winemakers, always experimenting. He replanted some plots at very high density, resulting in particularly intense flavours. 2014 was perfect for whites (not too hot or dry cf 2022) and it was a treat to have a 10-year-old white in our tasting. However, because of Olivier’s winemaking, it actually tastes extremely young. Pale straw. Great charge of energy on the nose of this wine which is of course six years older than the Chablis 2020. Liquorice and lemon peel on the nose. Massive tension. Still extremely youthful. Leaner fruit than the Chablis 2020 and all set for a long life. Some honey and lots of green vegetation and lime. A bit like an electric shock! Almost austere at this point! But long. (JR)

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 St Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere from Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy was not as clean on the nose as its peers, slightly cheesy at first and then light mothball scents. The palate is fresh on the entry with a pretty kiwi fruit and Cornice pear opening; but it never achieves the same level of tension and focus as other premier crus from the appellation, and it seems to drift on the finish. This may well be entering a dumb phase, and it may well re-find the promise it demonstrated from barrel, hence my plus sign.

(still in tank): Very tight, high-pitched aromas of lemon, lime and crushed stone. Boasts bracing acid thrust and penetration but has just enough ripeness of fruit to avoid coming off as hard. Lamy notes that this wine was always very citrussy but is rounding out with long élevage .