2004 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto

Giacosa's 2004 Barolo Falletto is a rock star. The truth is that, if tasted alone, the white label Falletto could easily be mistaken for the Red Label Riserva. It is every bit that compelling. Intensely perfumed yet also towering in stature, the 2004 is simply magnificent. The main difference between the white label and red label is finesse in the tannin, which is a bit less polished here. But that is only because there is a comparison. Taken on its own, the Falletto is one of the very finest wines of the vintage. Elegance meets power. With a little advance aeration, the 2004 can be enjoyed young, but it is frankly best left alone for another few years, especially for readers who only own a few bottles. This is yet another 2004 that has really blossomed in bottle.

Two wines from Bruno Giacosa, both from magnum, are brilliant. The 2004 Barolo Falletto (magnum) is deep, sinewy and exceptionally polished. Opened much too young, the 2004 nevertheless confirms the greatness of the year at Giacosa. Floral and savory notes are supported by firm tannins in a super-classic, taut Barolo endowed with magnificent energy and tension. Readers need to be patient, but there is a lot to look forward to.

One of FZ's favourite producers who probably knows the Langhe best – very reliable throughout the range. This is his basic Barolo; the others will be released next year. Quite blueish and pale at the rim. Hint of tea and treacle on the nose. Very rich and pruney on the front palate – I seek a little more freshness on the palate. Very claret-like structure but just a bit dusty on the nose. Liquorice flavour is what Ziliani points out to me but says he'd like more assertive tannins. Giacosa is obviously an excellent producer but this wine seems to me to show heat a bit too much. Lively on the palate though… (JR) We had a disappointing bottle a the Decanter tasting. (JH)