1990 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc

The 1990 vintage may have given Scavino a little more to work with as his 1990 Barolo Bric del Fiasc (3-liter) is utterly profound. Rich, dark and sensual, the wine flows onto the palate with marvelous concentration and depth. Layers of menthol, spices, sweet roses and dark fruit swirl around in the glass as this magnificent, regal Barolo struts its stuff. A veritable fountain of youth, this towering Barolo promises to drink spectacularly well for another two decades. From a standard bottle the 1990 is approachable, but readers lucky enough to own large formats will want to find a way to wait a few more years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. The 1989 and 1990 vintages find Enrico Scavino at a fascinating intersection between traditional and modern styles. Fermentations and macerations lasted roughly 12-14 days, while pumpovers and punchdowns were still performed manually. The malolactic fermentations were done mostly in small French oak barrels. The wines were aged first in French oak and then in larger casks, an approach similar to the one Scavino employs today. What comes through most in these wines is a decided commitment to low yields which is seen in the sheer concentration and depth of fruit.

The 1990 Bric del Fiasc (5-liter) could not be more different than the 1989, yet it too is a compelling Barolo. Boasting masses of rich, concentrated fruit a fat, lush personality and fine, silky tannins, it is a beautifully balanced fruit-driven wine to drink now and over the next decade. A note of alcoholic warmth provides a heady, unforgettable finish.

The 1990 Bric del Fiasc (5-liter) could not be more different than the 1989, yet it too is a compelling Barolo. Boasting masses of rich, concentrated fruit a fat, lush personality and fine, silky tannins, it is a beautifully balanced fruit-driven wine to drink now and over the next decade. A note of alcoholic warmth provides a heady, unforgettable finish. 94/Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016. Bric del Fiasc, was first produced in 1978. The vineyard is located in Castiglione Falletto and the wines from this plot are generally the biggest and most structured of the estate’s lineup. In important vintages Bric del Fiasc requires at least several years of cellaring. Today vintages 1989 and 1990 appear to still be fresh and youthful and my guess is that recent vintages will age at least as well given that they were made from lower yields and with a much greater sense of awareness towards other factors affecting quality. Antonio Galloni, In the Cellar # G Oct 2006