2004 Domaine La Barroche Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Pure

Up with the top 2-3 wines in the vintage, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is a blend of 97% Grenache and 3% other permitted varieties, aged all in concrete tank, that comes from the sandy sections of the Grand Pierre, Rayas and Pointu lieux-dits. Just gorgeous, with perfumed kirsch, spice, crushed flowers and licorice aromas and flavors all emerging from the glass, it flows onto the palate with full-bodied richness, fine tannin and an overall seamless, elegant profile that’s a joy to drink. It should continue to evolve gracefully, yet I see no reason to delay gratification. Only the second vintage for the young Julien Barrot, who first starting taking over from his father in 2002, 2004 is a fantastic vintage for this estate. Both of the wines are young, with fabulous textures, knockout fruit and overall complex, layered personalities. While he produced four different reds in 2004 (I was only able to review two for this report), he no longer produces the Fiancee and Terroir, and releases just his classic Chateauneuf du Pape and a cuvee Pure today.

Medium red. Raspberry, strawberry jam and red licorice on the nose, with a whiff of blood orange. Supple but fresh, with vibrant red fruit flavors lifted by a mineral note. A persistent raspberry note carries through the long, juicy finish of this very suave wine. Delicious right now.

Light red. Rich, powerful and deeply scented, with aromas of cherry preserves, cassis and sweet tobacco that seemed to shut down with aeration. Thick and rich on the palate, with a strong sense of concentration and thickness, but quite ungiving today. I sense excellent power and ripeness here, but today the wine does not want to reveal itself.