1982 Château La Conseillante
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The 1982 La Conseillante has always been one of my favorite Pomerols in this vintage, and this bottle suggests there is no way it will relinquish that position. Interestingly, it is rather muted for the first five or ten minutes. Then, the aromatics flower with exquisite red fruit, mulberry, leather and black truffle. A little Brettanomyces is suggested in the background, though it is very minor. The palate is medium-bodied and initially lighter than the previous bottle. Still, it magically deepens with aeration, delivering those trademark clove and black truffle scents, the latter becoming particularly prominent. It is not a powerful Pomerol. After four decades, there isn't a huge amount of grip, yet it has lovely balance and charm. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.
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One of the most sensual, viscerally appealing wines of the vintage is the 1982 La Conseillante, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping Pomerol that wafts from the glass with aromas of minty blackberries, raspberry liqueur, black truffle, sweet soils tones and spices. Supple and expansive, with melting tannins and a long, perfumed finish, it's one of my favorite 1982 Bordeaux today.
The 1982 La Conseillante was the first bona fide success after a long period languishing in the doldrums and the good news is that even after 36 years, this Pomerol continues to give immense pleasure. The aromatics embrace primary and secondary aromas. You can still feel the plushness of fruit that the warm vintage bestowed with mulberry and black plum aromas. Compared directly with the 1989 it is clearly more mature and yet still so pleasurable. The palate is medium-bodied with tannins that have mellowed in recent years, a mixture of red and black fruit, tobacco and clove, a splash of Earl Grey and black truffle towards the finish that is only just becoming loose-knit. It is a wonderful 1982 Pomerol that has probably got another decade on the clock if bottles are of sound provenance. Tasted at the "International Business & Wine" Pomerol dinner at 10 Trinity.
About the producer
Château la Conseillante was built in 1750 and named after the proprietor, Libourne business woman Catherine Conseillan. The reputation of the wines quickly grew and her wines became some of the most expensive in the region.