2019 Hirsch Vineyards Maritime Pinot Noir
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Tasting notes
Made entirely from estate fruit and biodynamically farmed. This is a bottling from a specific block of the vineyard that is higher elevation and more directly exposed to ocean influence. This section of the vineyard was replanted previously due to phylloxera, so the vines are younger relative to other sections of the site. The 2019 is the first vintage that this section of the vineyard has been bottled separately since establishing the newer planting. Prior to the replant, Burt Williams of William Selyem was a fan and advocate for this section of the site. Available via mailing list only. No whole cluster. 35% new oak and 16 months' ageing. The Maritime is also broader and darker in comparison with the West Ridge or San Andreas Fault Pinots, more similar in size to the Raschen Ridge while carrying a markedly different character. Where the Raschen Ridge feels more assertive and confident, the Maritime is perhaps still finding its feet. In terms of aromatic and flavour profile, the Maritime is more woodsy (not woody), and quite savoury, while retaining the red-fruit backdrop of the site. There is less finesse here, while still plenty of restraint. This is the one wine in the portfolio where I noticed the alcohol – it is not severe by any means but does show itself. There is a sandstone-like texture – like rubbing across the surface of the rock. Enjoying this wine with time for it to open and alongside food would serve it well. (ECB)
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW