2003 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard

The elegant, pure, stylish 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill Vineyard offers stunning aromas of kirsch, red and black currants, cedarwood and vanillin. Tasting like a Napa version of Leoville Las Cases, this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a rich, Bordeaux-like effort with beautiful elegance, finesse and harmony. It can be drunk now or cellared for another 10-15 years. When Colgin’s 2003s were made, winemaker Mark Aubert was working with Bordeaux consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud. Both remember 2003 as a year of small yields with a wet spring, a moderate summer, and huge heat spikes during the third week of September. Tel. (707) 963-0999

Good full ruby. Superripe, broad nose dominated by black raspberry; slightly liqueur-like. Sweet, lush and fat but kept firm by an edge of acidity. The wine's substantial, broad tannins arrive late, allowing the fruit to open impressively on the back end. As extravagantly rich and ripe as this is, there's no shortage of verve. A knockout. Today this wine was the most impressive of this outstanding collection of '03s.

(15.3% alcohol) Good full ruby. Knockout nose combines black cherry, raspberry, licorice and flowers, all complemented by sexy woodsmoke; for a moment, this reminded me of a superripe but sappy pinot! Then wonderfully sweet, dense and silky, with primary black fruit flavors of outstanding concentration. Finishes with sweet, toothcoating tannins and explosive fruit.