2013 De Lille Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Four Flags

(made with fruit from Grand Ciel, Ciel du Cheval, Upchurch and Klipsun vineyards; 70% new oak): Deep ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, licorice and crushed rock, plus a very ripe suggestion of plum brandy that winemaker Chris Upchurch says is from the Klipsun fruit. Wonderfully dense, fine-grained and broad, combining Latour-like saline, gravel and graphite notes with the vibrant blueberry and mineral aspect of Ciel du Cheval. Seriously structured, sharply focused, very pure wine with lovely floral lift and elegance. Finishes with sweet tannins and outstanding breadth.

Up there with the incredible 2012, yet in a more focused, tight, backwards style, the inky colored 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Four Flags comes from four separate vineyards (Klipsun, Grand Ciel, Ciel du Cheval and Upchurch) and exhibits classic Red Mountain characteristics of black fruit, smoked herbs, licorice, graphite and dusty minerality on the nose. Possessing serious intensity, full-bodied richness, ripe, yet present tannin and a fabulous finish, it needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years, and it will drink beautifully through 2038.