2014 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres
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This is my second encounter with Ente's 2014 Meursault Clos des Ambres. To be honest, it does not blow me away like the first bottle, yet it remains a startling and delicious white Burgundy. The nose is just as intense with the striking mineralité and pitch-perfect reduction - not too much, not too little. I noticed just a little more creaminess to the texture compared to the first bottle two years back, maybe now attaining more depth with hints of brioche and grilled hazelnut adorning the finish. Great length. I am fascinated to see how this Clos des Ambre will mature.
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William Kelley, Wine Advocate
Jancis Robinson MW
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Finally, the 2014 Meursault Clos des Ambres from Domaine Arnaud Ente, a wine that I have had a couple of times previously in bottle rather than magnum format. It is very convincing on the nose with citrus peel, crushed stone and light grilled walnut aromas. It’s quite dazzling considering it is a Village Cru. The palate is not amazingly complex yet very well balanced, touches of bitter lemon, lemon thyme and ginger, quite edgy on the finish. With time it revealed astonishing tension and mineralité.
The Arnaud Ente 2014 Meursault Clos des Ambres offers up a similar profile to the regular Meursault villages—apple, citrus, flowers—but complemented by suggestions of green pear and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is more concentrated, with serious chewy extract and mid-palate depth, its finish long, penetrating and grippy. This will really blossom with time in the cellar. The Clos des Ambres is produced from old vines, planted in 1952 to 1953, in an unusually stony part of the lieu-dit of En l'Ormeau where the water table is lower.
(aged in a 14-hectoliter foudre and one new pièce ): Bright, pale yellow. Lemon zest and crushed rock on the nose. Tightly wound, intensely flavored and classically dry; more reductive than the basic village bottling and more austere too. Showing little in the way of fleshiness or easy sweetness but this wine boasts terrific energy and finishes high-pitched and long, with a light touch.