2015 Domaine René Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

Inky ruby. Deep-pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of black currant and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of exotic spices with air. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, licorice and spicecake flavors that are sharpened by a smoky mineral element. Becomes sweeter and livelier with air and finishes extremely long, featuring rounded tannins and lingering spiciness.

The 2015 Côte Rôtie La Landonne is more tannic and structured, with the smoky, meaty, mineral-laced bouquet I always find in this terroir. Black, black fruits, full body, a layered, rich, opulent texture, and building tannin make for one seriously impressive Côte Rôtie that needs to be forgotten for 5-7 years. It will last for 2-3 decades. The son of René, Pierre Rostaing, is now taking a more leading role in this terrific estate. The 2015s are beautiful wines, but don’t discount the 2016s, which are almost as impressive.

Am I being stingy in only awarding Rostaing's 2015 Cote Rotie la Landonne 99+ points? This is a tremendous wine, showing immense richness and power without any apparent weight. Raspberries flood the palate in waves, accented by various spices in a wine that's intensely tannic yet never hard or astringent. Breathtaking stuff.