2012 Olivier Bernstein Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
(vinified with 80% whole clusters): Medium red. Ineffable aromas of red cherry, wild mint, pepper and nutmeg. Larger-scaled and deeper than the Clos de la Roche but less accessible today, perhaps partly owing to the stem element. Comes across as brooding, thick and dry, saline but also with intense spice character to its clenched red fruit flavors. Finishes with serious but surprisingly suave tannins and lingering lavender perfume. A lovely expression of terroir--or at least it will be one day.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(this wine was vinified with 80% whole clusters, vs. 50% for the rest of these 2012s): Good deep, bright red. Ineffable, soil-driven aromas of red cherry, pepper and wild herbs. Silky on entry, then chewy with extract in the middle, with bracing acidity intensifying the pure, lightly saline flavors of crushed dark berries, sour cherry and pomegranate. Finishes with outstanding primary berry persistence and rich tannins that reach the front teeth. Remarkably, there's hardly a trace of reduction here.
The 2012 Bonnes-Mares is one of the most reticent wines among the Grand Crus. Here it is the wine's inner tension and pure sense of energy that stand out most. Violets, crushed rocks, graphite and plums are all layered into the powerful, imposing finish. The 2012 was fermented with 80% whole clusters, and it still needs time to fully come together. Still, from time to time glimpses of brilliance come through, suggesting what lies ahead.
55-60% whole bunch, 100% new oak. From the Chambolle side below de Vogüé. 80% whole bunch. Last malolactic fermentation. Very rich, black fruited and a bit dry on the end but with lots of voluptuous fruit. Dramatic but a bit demanding at the moment. (JR)
About the producer
Olivier Bernstein is among the most successful producers in Burgundy, setting the bar high for the growing number of micro-négociants in the region by producing wines that compete with those of the Côte d’Or’s finest domaines.