2004 Ridge Monte Bello

Youthful nose, with a very wide spectrum of red and black fruit, as well as delicate notes of cardamon pods and vanilla beans. For 18 years of age this still has a serious tannin structure and remarkable vitality on the compact palate. Very long, complete finish with plenty of chalky minerality. A cuvee of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot and 6% petit verdot. Tasted at the Thomas Kammeier Monte Bello vertical.

The 2005 Monte Bello is beginning to drink very well indeed, revealing complex aromas of sweet currant fruit, rich soil, cedar cigar box and sweet spices. With time in the glass, nuances of dark chocolate and loamy soil emerge too. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with fine-grained structuring tannins, the first signs of emerging savory nuance and a bright, beautifully focused finish. As it approaches age 13, the 2005 is still very youthful—indeed, this particular bottle was more reserved and taut than the last four or five that I've encountered—so there's certainly no rush to drink it. Cropped at just under one ton per acre, the 2005 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.4% natural alcohol. (WK)

The 2004 Monte Bello opens in the glass with classic aromas of cigar box, spice and crushed red and black currant fruit, revealing little obvious trace of its time in new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied but still quite tightly wound, with a firm chassis of fine-grained tannins and a bright line of acidity that seem to demand further cellaring. I suspect it's in a somewhat withdrawn phase between youth and maturity. That said, the 2004 isn't as structured as another backward vintage, the 2006, nor do I believe it possesses as much potential for positive evolution. It's a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc.