2004 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Good deep red. Ineffable aromas of raspberry, crushed stone and flowers. Like liquid silk on entry, then quite tightly wound in the middle, offering great purity and nerve but hiding more than it's showing in the way of flavor today. This has a nearly frightful intensity and superb stony persistence. Due to hail in late August, the yield here was just 20 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 25 in 2005, according to Millet. A highlight of the vintage. When I asked Millet to compare his 2004s to his 2001s, he told me that the acidity in the spine of the 2004s is barely tasteable, as the minerality of the wine dominates. "In comparison, the 2001s are gaining in sensuality and elegance," he said. "But their fresh fruit flavors are still fighting their acidity."