2014 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

The 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru put in a strong showing. Taut and fresh, it has a perfumed nose with freshly baked popcorn, almond, mirabelle and jasmine that gain complexity with time. The palate is quite spicy on the entry, hints of apricot and wild peach blossom with a wonderfully-detailed and sustained finish. This is very impressive. Tasted at the "Judgement of Clapham Junction" dinner in London.

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru maybe does not quite possess the same precision as the Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet at the moment. There is a hint of wild mint that develops with time, some dried orange peel, even a light touch of fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly viscous opening, more cohesion with a dab of ginger towards the finish that just needs more persistence. This is a very commendable Bâtard-Montrachet, although my preference is with the Criots this year.

Bright lemon-yellow color. Ripe yellow fruits, mirabelle , spices, menthol and sexy oak tones on the rather restrained nose. Big, rich and full but with a light touch thanks to its lemony acidity and underlying smoky minerality. Conveys an impression of power but its baby fat also gives it a silky texture. Best today on the explosive, steadily mounting finish. Incidentally, Richard Fontaine assured me that 2008 was the last vintage here to show problems with premature oxidation, noting that he is now using higher-quality corks.