2016 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru

Saturated ruby-red. Very ripe blueberry and dark chocolate aromas project an almost liqueur-like quality. Then dense and sappy in the mouth, conveying an impression of sound acidity (this is the lowest in pH among these 2016s at 3.3) but not quite the texture or early balance of the Caillerets. The intense flavors of dark berries, licorice and menthol are at once chocolatey and slightly medicinal. With its significant baby fat, this wine boasts outstanding volume for Taillepieds and may well require a decade in the cellar to approach its peak. The yield here was only about 25 hectoliters per hectare, a bit higher than the Caillerets.

The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds is more outgoing and expressive on the nose compared to the Caillerets with ebullient blackberry, blueberry and subtle floral aromas—very pure and delineated, still correct, never flamboyant. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe and fine tannin, a silver bead of acidity here that confers great tension to this Taillepieds and you can feel that residue of mineralité tingling on the tongue on the aftertaste. It will require five or six years in bottle but it will be worth the wait—an outstanding Taillepieds, one of the best that I have encountered from barrel.

35-year-old vines. South of the village, high and east facing – same elevation as Clos des Ducs, 320-330 m. High for Burgundy. Steep and stony like Caillerets. Quite deep crimson. Quite rich and dense on the nose. Usually more austere than some other wines from this stable. Lots to chew on. Guillaume d'Angerville says it's his most masculine wine. Lots of tannins! Well sculpted and a real mouthful. (JR)