2008 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2008 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru put in a seriously good performance. It is limpid and silvery in hue, and sure, there remains a patina of oak that slightly obscures the delineation, but it meliorates in the glass and gorgeous oyster shell and flinty scents emerge. The palate is commendably fresh and focused on the entry and beautifully balanced. The finish perhaps comes across as a little predictable, though if you are familiar with Boillot's style, then that is not necessarily a negative point. Tasted at the Vinous off-line dinner at La Trompette. (NM)
Critic scores
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Allen Meadows, Burghound
More reviews and scores
Rather inexpressive on the nose, hinting at soft citrus fruits. Then powerfully minerally in the mouth in spite of a rather silky texture, with strong acidity contributing to the impression of energy. Still youthfully compact, and best today on the very dry, very long finish, where the wine's superb density calls for extended aging. The acidity here, according to Boillot, is 5.85 grams per liter-certainly one of the higher numbers I heard in Burgundy this spring. (Incidentally, Boillot opened a bottle of the 2002 Clos de la Mouchere for me that was still a couple of years short of its peak. It did not show the surmaturite displayed by so many whites from this vintage. As we enjoyed this wine, Boillot commented that his top 2000s were too young to drink but that his 2001s were developing faster than he would have predicted at the outset. And he recommended drinking his 2005s before his 2002s "due to hydric stress" in 2005.
Here the nose is a bit more complex than that of the 'straight' Perrières with a similar nose that displays just a bit more minerality but also notably more tension and punch on the palate staining and highly textured medium-bodied flavors. The hugely long finish fans out like a peacock's tail and this delivers grand cru quality. *Sweet Spot, Outstanding*
About the producer
Based in Meursault and farming some of the finest vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, Henri Boillot is a leading address in Burgundy. He crafts fine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but the estate is best known for its flagship monopole vineyard, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos de la Mouchère.