2016 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port

The 2016 Vintage Port is an equal blend of old vines and Touriga Franca, coming in with 113 grams per liter of residual sugar. Fresher, livelier and lusher than the Warre's this issue—which is the most accessible of the Symington declarations—it is also going to be approachable relatively young. This is a fine Port, but it's not truly made for greatness. If it is not quite as rich and decadent as Warre's, it is more lifted on the finish, with a sunny feel and a more aromatic beginning. I liked them about equally well, but the styles are certainly different. Neither may be the best agers. Bottled in May 2018, there were 1,500 cases produced.

The 2016 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port represents the best production from the Quinta da Madalena vineyard, where picking did not begin until 28 September. It perhaps just lacks the same intensity and complexity of its peers with black truffle and smoke aromas infusing the black fruit. The palate is well balanced with a spicy, stem ginger tinged opening that shows much more promise than the nose. I admire the tension here, a nimble and agile Vintage Port that gathers weight towards the finish. Fine, but perhaps a more short-term proposition than its peers.

The brand that came with the Symington purchase of Graham's in 1970, and associated with the 5-ha Quinta de Madalena in the Rio Torto Valley. That super-deep Sym crimson again. Very luscious, appealing nose. Smooth and sweet, a sort of cadet to the big guns initially but then freshness and polished tannins (masses of them) kick in. Rather inky, almost bitter on the end. Leathery. (JR)