2016 Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Holle Riesling Kabinett Trocken
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Tasting notes
As is often the case with Künstler’s offerings from the Hölle, this displays overt chalkiness as a starched sense of mineral suffusion, paired with a firm texture. Add prominent piquancy of apple and lime pits and, despite admirable primary juiciness, we have a somewhat austere performance that lacks quite the brightness or mineral layering of the corresponding Kirchenstück. Still, there is admirable polish and persistence, an intriguing, Chablis-like allusion to chicken stock suggesting yet more mouthwatering savor to come. And even at 12% alcohol a certain sense of lift invites the designation “Kabinett.” (For why this wine violates VDP labeling strictures, see my comments on its Kirchenstück counterpart.)
Critic scores
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2016 Rheingau Riesling Hochheimer Hölle Kabinett Trocken (at 12% alcohol, marginally fuller than its 11.5% Kirchenstück counterpart) offers a complex, more intellectual rather than hedonistic bouquet of crushed stones and ripe, clear, fresh Riesling aromas. Very elegant and slightly piquant on the palate, this is a lithe, pure and a bit ascetic but very mineral Riesling classic that needs a certain amount of time to develop its full complexity. There is a hint of Chablis here in this chalky elegance and fruit-reduced style. The finish is considerably long and tensioned, with very fine tannins and lingering minerality. Impressive.