2012 Cullen - Chardonnay Kevin John
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The 2012 vintage in Margaret River will be remembered for its classicism and elegance. The wines across the board were harmonious and balanced, and they have proven to be aging very well in the cellar indeed. Here, the 2012 Kevin John Chardonnay shows notes of caramel and stewed apple, yellow peach, preserved citrus and blood orange. It has an opulence and richness that is all but obliterated by the presence of precise acidity and phenolic weight, and the outcome overall is one of balance and impressive harmony. This is awesome. 12.7% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. According to the technical sheet provided to me by Cullen Wines during this tasting, the vintage conditions in 2012 began with solid rainfall events followed by a very dry and hot summer, leading to sensational expression of fruit power across all varieties. From 36-year-old dry-grown Wente clone vines, the grapes were hand harvested on fruit and flower days. They were then whole-bunch pressed and fermented with wild yeast in French barriques. The wine underwent natural malolactic fermentation in barrique prior to receiving 11 months of maturation in 33% new oak. There were no additions of yeast or acidity.
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Josh Raynolds
Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate
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(aged in one-third new oak): Greenish yellow. Heady aromas of ripe citrus and orchard fruits, honeysuckle, iodine and candied ginger, with subtle lees and smoky mineral qualities in the background. Juicy, incisive and pure, offering fresh tangerine, pear and chamomile flavors lifted by tangy acidity. This silky, seamless yet penetrating chardonnay finishes with a whiplash of lively citrus fruits and lingering floral character. I don't recall ever having a better example of this consistently outstanding Australian white wine. Incidentally, readers lucky enough to own some of the 2004 version of this wine (which was not called "Kevin John" back then) are sitting on some really outstanding chardonnay. A bottle that I drank in late May was still quite youthful, but beginning to show subtle nuttiness to go with its intense citrus fruit and pear skin flavors. I'd be in no hurry to drink it but wouldn't hesitate to enjoy it now either.