2018 Jean Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand) 'Cuvee VV Le Clos' Fleurie

Matured entirely in used barrels, Dutraive's 2018 Fleurie Clos de la Grand'Cour Vieilles Vignes wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet that mingles notes of cherries and raspberries with nuances of warm spices and smoked meats. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with an ample chassis of powdery tannin, ripe acids and a concentrated core of fruit. In a cold cellar, this should drink very well for the better part of two decades—though I suspect few bottles will survive long enough to put that assertion to the test.