NV Marie Courtin Extra Brut Resonance Blanc de Noirs

A pure 2010 Pinot disgorged this April, the Marie Courtin NV Extra Brut Champagne Resonance 100413ND sets an alliance of incisive and musky rose radish with piquant toasted nuts against a juicy, tart matrix of apple and lemon. Subtle lees inflection helps buffer the acids here, but brash and bright are what this wine wants to be, and its sizzling, incisive, sappy, downright mouth-shaking finish is gloriously unrestrained. Plan to enjoy it over the coming year; and, if holding bottles for longer, I’d suggest – not from direct experience, but from caution knowing how little sulfur was utilized here – that you monitor them carefully. Dominique Moreau created her estate – named for a grandmother – in 2005, and is one of the increasingly numerous growers fluently witnessing to the potential of the Cotes des Bar’s Kimmeridgian belt by growing her fruit biodynamically and showcasing it in vintage- and vineyard-specific bottlings vinified with minimal sulfur (usually a smidgeon each in the press and at bottling), and typically finished without dosage. A horrendous June storm (on the heels of a hail-laden predecessor days earlier) rendered it impossible this year for me to spend time with her in her vineyards, but fortunately the bottles she had set out for me to taste were still chilly despite loss of power, and they stole the show even from the outdoor natural drama. Lot numbers on Marie Courtin labels refer to the vintage in question; followed by the month and year of disgorgement; then reference to dosage (or rather, in most instances at this address, its absence). Incidentally, the prevalence of “non-vintage” yet single vintage-dedicated bottlings especially among young growers in the Aube arises from their choosing – or, in many cases, needing for financial reasons – to disgorge the wines too soon to qualify under Champagne regulations for official “vintage” status. Thomas Calder Selections, Paris (with various importers); fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29, importers include Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and Joli Vin, Emeryville, CA; tel. (415) 308-2460

The appropriately named NV (2009) Extra Brut Resonance emerges from the glass with deep layers of textured fruit. There is a pure energy and vibrancy in the 2009 that is striking. Sweet floral notes, dried pears, red berries, mint and spices are all layered into the focused, taut finish. At the same time, the warm 2009 vintage gives the Pinot Noir a level of richness that balances the non-dose style beautifully. This is a great introduction to the wines of Dominique Morneau and Marie-Courtin. Disgorged March 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Proprietress Dominique Morneau embodies all of the qualities of the artisan approach in Champagne. Hers are some of the most adventurous, cutting edges Champagnes readers will come across. Biodynamic farming, the use of natural yeasts, and low or no dosage are some of the elements that inform these wines. Above all else, the Marie-Courtin Champagnes are made with meticulously grown fruit that makes the above possible. Readers who want to explore the outer boundaries of Champagne should pay close attention to this tiny, emerging estate in the Cote des Bars, a previously under the radar part of the region that continues to produced a bevy of compelling wines. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Galaxy Wine Company, Portland, (OR); tel. (503) 248-9493, Cream Wine Company, Chicago, (IL); tel. (312) 421-1900

The NV (2008) Extra Brut Resonance is 100% Pinot Noir from a parcel in Polisot. It is a brilliant, energetic wine endowed with gorgeous richness and depth. Succulent apricots, peaches, flowers and crushed rocks are some of the many nuances that take shape in the glass. Chalky notes linger on the precise, beautifully articulated, eternal finish. The pedigree of the vintage comes through loud and clear. The 2008 Resonance kept getting better and better with air. It is a fabulous wine in every way. I loved it. This is Lot# R08D031ND. Disgorged March 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This is a breathtaking set of wines from proprietor Dominique Moreau. Biodynamic farming and non-interventionalist winemaking are the rule. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and are bottled with no dosage. I followed the open bottles in my refrigerator for several days, during which the wines seemed to get better and better. I can’t say enough good things about these hand-made, artisan Champagnes. If Moreau keeps making wines like these she will soon be one of the superstars of Champagne. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fabulous wines. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Potomac Selections, Inc., Landover, MD; tel. (301) 583-8844