2018 Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin

Ripe and red-cheeked and cheeky and round. Can Gevrey be cheeky?! Smells like mandarin-charged redcurrants and the wet bark of an old plum tree, pocked with lichen. Red-apple skins. Laurel leaf and bark dust and mushroom compost. So intensely wintery; holding this wine in my mouth tastes like a winter afternoon with the sun like skimmed milk through black-bony hedgerows, the last crimson hawthorn berries and the last black sloe berries iced jewels glinting mouth-watering cold. Still tight and young, but exciting even so. (TC)