2006 Domaine de Montille Beaune Les Greves 1er Cru-OBS
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Tasting notes
The de Montille 2006 Beaune Les Greves – informed by a southerly holding, near Teurons – is strikingly saline and alkaline already in its nose. Lightly-cooked cherry and meat stock on a palate of modest weight and relative refinement lead to a finish in which the wine's mineral dimensions seem to form a fine coating, but engender less invigoration or focus than is found in the Perrieres. There's no doubt, though, that this boasts riper fruit than that sibling, and de Montille says the grapes were "a class better." Time may further reveal the extent of that difference, but I would still plan to drink this wine within the next 4-6 years. Domaine de Montille – for more about whose generational change and impressive recent expansion consult my report in issue 171 – has now completed the renovation of old cellars in Meursault that house in addition to the estate's wines those of Deux Montilles, the white wine negociant project of siblings Etienne and Alix de Montille (for a report on which, see my issue 186 coverage of 2007 vintage white Burgundies). The de Montilles began picking in Volnay on September 25, followed by harvest of Pommard, Corton, and then Beaune. "The sugar levels were around 13% potential alcohol and they kept going up," reports Etienne de Montille, "but I didn't taste that much difference in the ripeness of the fruit." Meanwhile, rot was threatening, and diligent triage as well as gentle, watchful vinification followed. But de Montille – who sees the vintage as combining aspects of 2000 and 2002 – persisted in his recent fidelity to whole-clusters and stem inclusion, with the top cuvees hovering around 50% vendange entier. Incidentally, de Montille had the estate's new cellars scrupulously searched and tested for signs of TCA; has installed a system for removing chlorine from the water used there; and (in a move that will affect an even larger portion of the production at Chateau de Puligny, which he directs) will be employing DIAM composite corks for the bottling of several (relatively) less-expensive wines, starting with vintage 2008. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Very light nose. Then bitter cherries and good well-integrated flavours. Very charming. Just a little fine tannin to shed. Good balance. Neat finish. (JR)
(25% whole clusters) Moderately saturated medium red. Raspberry, smoke and a whiff of meat on the nose. Juicy and stony in the mouth, with more intensity and definition of flavor than the Perrieres. This shows very good lift from calcaire, as well as more density of material. Should be accessible early. In fact, notes Montille, "consumers will probably get 90% of the quality of most of our 2006s in the next three or four years."
Good medium red. Nuanced if slightly funky nose combines smoke, mocha and minerals. Denser than the Perrieres or Sizies, with a brisk minerality enlivening its flavors of black cherry, licorice, spices and menthol. A step up in intensity, without any loss of cut.
About the producer
Volnay’s Domaine de Montille is one of the most historic in the Côte d’Or. Founded in 1730, the property remains family-owned and run, with Etienne de Montille – the ninth generation – at the helm today.