2005 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is a gorgeous wine, but it also needs a good hour or more of air for some of the initial signs of funkiness to blow off. As that happens, the 2005 reveals a core of intense, concentrated dark fruit to match its brooding personality. Leather, smoke, licorice and tobacco all add to an impression of inward power, and yet in the glass, the 2005 opens up beautifully to show notable density and layers of texture that still need time to fully emerge. Although I have had better bottles, this is certainly a very fine example. Readers lucky enough to own the 2005 can look forward to several decades of exceptional drinking from this powerhouse, old school Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

(as with the 2004, the alcohol content is listed on the label as "13-3/4"): Bright medium ruby. Musky aromas of currant, leather and herbs are tightly wound and medicinal, suggesting a wine with firm acidity. Then brisk and penetrating on the palate, with mountain-berry pungency and a distinctly firm edge, plus a suggestion of Band-Aid. Doesn't show the inner-mouth perfume of the 2004 bottling. The serious mountain tannins are a bit tough and tart. I certainly wouldn't uncork this wine for at least a few more years, but will this wine ever become plush and pliant?

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is just now beginning to enter a sweet spot where the aromatics show signs of complexity while the tannins are softening. Dark red and black stone fruits tobacco, savory herbs, smoke and new leather are all very much alive in a striking, nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon loaded with class and complexity. This is a decidedly dark, virile Cabernet with more than enough structure to drink well for many, many years. The crystalline, translucent finish alone is a thing of beauty.